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January 3rd, 2001, 08:40 AM
#11
Inactive Member
Rafe,
Thanks for your help/advices (and others pple here as well) on ITR shocks/springs...The ITR ones are cheap..and it rocks 
That orange anti-freeze is actually (or seems to have) more sediment than the regular green stuffs. After it leaked out and dried up, you'll see the orange power residue left. With the green stuffs, you hardly see any...
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January 3rd, 2001, 08:59 AM
#12
Senior Hostboard Member
Sediment in a closed cooling system is different from residue left when the coolant dries outside of the cooling system. The Dexcool (and Prestone I think) is supposed to leave little or no sediment in a closed cooling system compared to "green" antifreeze.
As for the ITR shocks and springs, they do rock! The price is great and they're factory Honda parts to boot. 
[This message has been edited by rjaffey (edited January 03, 2001).]
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January 3rd, 2001, 09:34 AM
#13
Inactive Member
You guys are right about not wanting to mix the two fluids, but you can actually get away with a little more mixture than "completely free". I think its about 18-20% of a mix that is considered unusable. Of course I don't know why you'd mix that much other than an emergency when that's all you had....
JRCivic, if you have any information on why the dexcool wouldn't perform as well I'm sure we'd all be interested. Its my understanding that as long as your coolant is designed for aluminum radiators you're a-okay.
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January 3rd, 2001, 09:39 AM
#14
Inactive Member
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January 4th, 2001, 06:13 AM
#15
Senior Hostboard Member
I don't know if this is BS or not...
I was about to put some in my car a month or so ago. A friend of mine from a local radiator shop happened to be standing close by... he stopped me from pouring it !!! He said that it is designed for GM's new line of vehicles because they use a special alloy in their radiators now. Apparently, it transfers heat differently than the regular green stuff. He claims that it is not nearly as effective as the green stuff in an aluminum radiator... although there are certainly better properties with the new formulation, we may not be able to use it yet.
As for the contamination part: Rafe is absolutely correct. You must completely flush your radiator first before adding the new stuff.
I will educate myself more on this subject tomorrow.
BTW - does the back panel say this stuff is SAFE/Recommended for ALL radiators or are there warnings suggesting certain vehicles/radiator types ???
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
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